Havana’s Mansion of the Monkeys

Most visitors to Havana have heard of the big-hitting museums and attractions but Havana, layered with 500 years of history, has had more than its fair share of characters, events and quirky goings-on.

Ever heard of the Monkey Farm? The Finca de los Monos is the stuff of legend and a bit of a bizarre day out – as well as a bargain one.

Found in the Cuban capital’s Cerro neighbourhood, the grey mansion, dating to 1906 and built by a Belgian architect, bears an austere castle-like look. Once known as the Quinta de las Delicias (Estate of Delights), it features a Norman arch entrance, crenelated roofline and round towers and is set in manicured grounds with towering royal palms.

In the early years of the 20^th century, Rosalía Abreu y Arencibia, a wealthy reclusive, collected monkeys, gibbons and chimps as pets here. At one time, it’s said, she lived with 130 animals – more than 20 different primate species – in the house and in cages in the grounds. She dressed some of them up, taught them to play the piano and guitar, and educated them in collecting the coats and hats of visitors to the house. Jimmy, a chimp, rescued from a circus act, accompanied her to the shops and opened the car door for her. It was said to be the largest private collection of primates in the world. Then, in 1915, Jimmy fathered Anumá – the first chimpanzee born in captivity.

For Havana’s 500^th Birthday, the estate was converted into the Monkey Farm: Technological Palace – a rather unusual theme park and venue with a playground, trampoline, roundabout, a tree house, electric trucks for hire, and a face painting set up. And, amid the little attractions and popcorn vendors, are life-size concrete representations of global primates: gorillas, an orangutan, a chimp sitting on a bench perched amid the trees. Set a bit away from the house is a ‘Train of Terror’ attraction and a grounded plane-cum-cafe. (Santa Catalina Street corner of Palatino; Cerro neighbourhood, southwest of Old Havana; open Thursday-Sundays 10am-5pm; price CUP30; children CUP20).

Inside, you’ll pass through the vestibule whose ceiling is a dazzler: a striking colourful mosaic of a man on a chariot. Beyond is the grand entrance with a curved spiral staircase with ornate railings, stuccoed ceilings held aloft by carved semi-naked women. The ceiling is painted with a fresco of angels surrounded by elaborate green and gold painted stucco. Off the entrance hall is a large room with painted walls featuring virtual reality machines and video games (extra charges).

Then there’s the café – which is worth a visit alone for its decorative wealth. On the floor are exquisite decorative handmade tiles in forest green and tomato red with an unusual pattern of a white flower and large Cuban lizard. At one end of the room is a bay filled with illuminating stain glassed windows. Elsewhere, panels on the wall depict giant portraits of the Abreu family; one shows two apes dressed in human clothing. An octagonal coffered ceiling is staggering: it’s recessed with stuccoed design and central floral decoration from where lamps hang. And each octagon is bound with gold painted braiding.

Take your coffee on to the terrace which overlooks the gardens of royal palms and some highly unusual (non-functioning) fountains where statues of apes are planted in the middle of the pools.