Tucked away on the coast of the vibrant Villa Clara province, Isabela de Sagua sets the stage for its history of trade and revolution. A far cry from the busy streets of Havana, this town offers the serenity of a seaside gem with easy access to Villa Clara’s bigger cities.
Once a major Cuban seaport, Isabela de Sagua is known for its nickname, “The Cuban Venice”, and its revolutionary victories. The quaint fishing village is home to proud locals, whose devotion to their town remains unchanged even after the damage caused by hurricane Kate in 1985.
A tale of resilience
The inhabitants of Isabela de Sagua know what it means to start from scratch. The 1985 Atlantic hurricane season brought Hurricane Kate to the port town, sweeping away its signature stilted overwater homes. Despite the destruction, the locals, who call themselves sagüeros, faced the aftermath of the tropical cyclone and rebuilt their community.
When Hurricane Irma struck Isabela de Sagua in 2017, the 3,000 people living in it refused to move to the new settlement, Isabela Nueva, located 11km inland. Instead, they took up one of the most ambitious renovation projects in the province. The plans envisioned building a fully operational marina, sea terminal, tourist accommodations, and restoring the urban image of Isabela’s streets.
Five years later, The Cuban Venice has been restored to its original glory and offers travellers a taste of Cuba’s north coast. Scuba-diving and snorkelling are popular at the various cays and isles off the village’s shore.
The early days of Isabela de Sagua
Isabela de Sagua in the first half of the 20th century
Isabela de Sagua was founded in 1843 as a trade port, exporting sugar, tobacco, and rum from the fruitful region of Sagua La Grande. The eponymous river connecting the two settlements saw the advent of Cuba’s first steamboat, which transported both goods and passengers.
The trade in the Villa Clara province flourished in the 19th and 20th centuries, attracting more and more settlers to Isabela de Sagua. Hundreds of ships docked and sailed from the port on a daily basis, while the people of Isabela established the beginnings of the village’s fishing tradition. Just like Venice in its heyday, Isabela de Sagua was known to be the gateway to imports and exports in Cuba.
Decades later, the preserved ruins of the customs office rise above the water, reminding us of the port’s tumultuous past.
Venture into Isabela de Sagua
Not far away from the old customs office, you will find overwater seafood restaurants. These stilted tiki huts are often family-owned and offer fresh fish and Cuban specialities at very reasonable prices.
Apart from dining in overwater restaurants and meeting the local people, tourists visit Isabela de Sagua to try their luck at fishing. Every street in the village leads to water, so finding the right spot comes easily. At the tip of the port village, you will find Playa Isabela — the closest beach where you can go for a dip.
The town’s proximity to the Northern Archipelago (Cayerías del Norte) makes it a perfect base for a scuba-diving adventure. The 500 islands that make up the Archipelago are close to an extensive coral barrier reef that is a true heaven for endemic plants and marine animals. Kilometres of white sandy beaches complete the picture-perfect image of these isles. Many of the cays are protected natural areas due to their unique biodiversity.
A history of revolution
Like the historic port of Isabela, the rest of the Villa Clara province has been the backdrop for some of Cuba’s pivotal moments. In the final days of the Cuban revolution, Che Guevara and his rebel fighters had a series of tactical victories, which resulted in the taking of Villa Clara’s capital, Santa Clara, from the Batista dictatorship.
One of the most notable moments of the 1958 Battle of Santa Clara was the derailing of an armoured train transporting Batista’s troops and weaponry. With the help of tractors from the school of Agronomy, the rebels raised the railway lines and captured the train. This victory led to the surrender of many of Batista’s troops and the subsequent end of his dictatorship.
Extend your stay
Isabela de Sagua is just the tip of the iceberg called Villa Clara — a province celebrated for its nature, history, and avant-garde cultural events. The central location of the fishing village allows for day trips to many of the provinces’ bigger cities.
You can take in the history of Santa Clara by visiting Che Guevara’s mausoleum and the national memorial of the ‘Tren Blindado’ (Armoured Train). Today, the capital of Villa Clara is known for its flourishing art scene and avant-garde cultural events such as drag shows. A night of Trova (live performances of popular Cuban songs) will satisfy your appetite for music and dance.
Just a short drive from Isabela de Sagua is Sagua la Grande, another beautiful city in the province. Its streets showcase the renovated colonial buildings such as the Palacio Arenas and Hotel Encanto Sagua. Nearby are also the Mogotes de Jumagua — a group of hills and limestone caves that are a treasure trove for endemic plants and animals.
Final thoughts
There’s no denying that Isabela de Sagua has a rustic charm with an aftertaste of history. The unique combination of pristine nature and historic memorials make the entire province a must-visit for a holiday to Cuba.
Love Cuba is the UK’s leading Cuba holiday specialist. Click here for more info or call us on 0207 071 3636 or email enquiries@lovecuba.com
