The best of the new indie stores in Havana

A piece of handmade jewellery, a one-of-a-kind dress or hand-stitched napkins and handmade soap? If you haven’t been to Cuba before, these artisanal gifts from Havana’s budding entrepreneurs might not give you pause for thought but if you’ve visited the island and know a little of its economic background, you’ll know that the makers of these crafts and gifts are on a brand-new journey in Cuba. Here’s the pick of the new crop of stores in the capital.

Calore opened last November in an Old Havana building that was once a ceramic store. The redesigned space is gorgeous with blown glass lamps in warm amber dangling from the tall ceiling. Calore showcases more than 20 brands and is run by designer and creative director Devon Ruiz and Daylene Hernández Alvarez, founder of clothing brand Innātus. Both designers work to commission as does their colleague Christian of fashion brand Left Limited. Think the colourful textile bags of Capicúa, dresses by Dador, lights by Guajiro, and bags by Textura and Hembra. Look out for Calore’s monthly events, too. (O’Reilly St 306 between Habana and Aguiar streets; daily 11am-9pm)

Calore

Casa Fumero is a beautifully designed concept store behind Café Jacqueline Fumero on the Plazuela del Santo Angel in Old Havana. In addition to clothing by Cuban brand Jacqueline Fumero, you’ll find a beautiful collection of Murano glass, new gorgeous acrylic Cuban orchid earrings by Brava, bags made from palm by talented designer Lénore Herrera and Linos Pottery pieces. (Tues-Sun 10am-6pm).

Beyond Roots is a tour company showcasing authentic Afro-Cuban culture. Its HQ has moved to a brand-new spot – Centro de las Raíces – facing the Plaza del Cristo in Old Havana. Downstairs is the café/bar and performance space for tour groups, as well as weekly yoga. Upstairs, opposite the popular hair salon, is its new store where you’ll find vibrant African-print clothing, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, hair products, t-shirts and mugs. (Lamparilla St 404 between Bernaza and Villegas streets; daily 10am-6pm).

At Libertador Havana, in the neighbourhood of el Vedado, this welcoming café, cigar lounge and store combo is an appealing place to browse for collectibles, curios and clothes. Browse around for classic vinyl, antique glass ware such as Baccarat crystal, books on Cuba, hand-decorated humidors, old stamps, coins and casino chips, and new and second-hand clothes. It’s a real treasure trove. (H Street 554 between 23 and 25 streets; daily 11am-1am).

Libertador Havana

And the best of the rest: Ama, a pandemic project, opened two years ago in a lovely, vibrant store in el Vedado. The two women behind the project, María and Ana, are both musicians but with lockdowns they turned their attention from melodies to making. Their focus is clothing and accessories made from crochet, with a nod to the 500 years of crochet tradition in Cuba’s Unesco-protected city of Trinidad, and more recently they’ve created outfits made entirely from beads. Think cute, crocheted flower bikini tops, hats, and figure-hugging beaded dresses in rainbow colours. Collabs beckon, too, with NYC jeweller Stephanie Gottlieb first in line. (19 Street 106 between L and M streets; Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; there’s a café attached, too.)

María & Ana Ama

Gao Habana (which means home in Cuban slang) opened during the pandemic on Compostela Street (114A between Empedrado and Tejadillo streets) with Annalisa Gallina at the helm. Clothes and crafts reflect the tropical colours and vibrant hues of Old Havana. Her small lockdown collection of bags, facemasks and t-shirts has expanded to include skirts, aprons, make up bags, painted hats, handmade cards and earrings and an exceptionally striking line in chic recycled plastic bags made by a family from Santa Clara. You can grab a cappuccino here, too, while you browse. (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm).